The “Superhero”: Diver Air by Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin's "Superhero" Dive Watch: In conversation with, Matthieu Haverlan
Welcome back to Watch World with Faye! As your host, I'm constantly reminded that this industry is about more than just gears and gadgets. It's about the stories behind the timepieces and the passionate individuals who bring them to life. Over my 20+ years, I've had the privilege of encountering everyone from the indie watchmaking wizards to the titans of the industry. And let me tell you, each has a tale to tell.
This episode is no exception. I recently sat down with Matthieu Haverlan, Managing Director of Ulysse Nardin, at the whirlwind that is Watches & Wonders 2025.
(The "Superhero" Launch)
Right off the bat, I threw Matthieu into the deep end (pun intended!). I confessed my borderline obsession with Ulysse Nardin's latest release. Forget "hero piece," with no credibility on my behalf, I declared it a "superhero piece." The Diver Air isn't just another watch; it's a testament to Ulysse Nardin's continued penchant for disruption, innovation, technology and design.
Matthieu, ever gracious, took it all in stride and dove (again, with the puns!) into the story behind the Diver Air.
(The Diver Air Deconstructed)
Ulysse Nardin has been toiling away for five years to create the "ultimate high-horology sport watch." And what does that even mean, you ask? Well, according to Matthieu, it boils down to three Herculean challenges:
Lightness: A watch you actually want to wear while, you know, doing stuff, not just posing with a trophy.
Robustness: Because let's face it, life happens, and your luxury timepiece shouldn't crumble at the first sign of action.
High-Horology: Because it’s Ulysse Nardin.
Their target? An ultra-light 50 grams. A robust 200 meters of water resistance. And enough G-force resistance to survive a pro golfer's swing (that's 5,000 Gs, for those keeping score at home). Oh, and did I mention the skeletonized calibre where 80% of it is air? Swiss Air, to be precise (Matthieu's words, not mine!).
(Challenges and Triumphs)
Matthieu then took us behind the scenes, revealing the five-year odyssey of bringing the Diver Air to life. The biggest hurdle? Titanium. Turns out, machining tiny titanium components is a bit like playing with fire (literally – it can catch fire!). And then there was the delicate balancing act of shaving off weight without sacrificing robustness. Imagine trying to make a tank out of feathers.
But, spoiler alert: they pulled it off. The Diver Air clocks in at a featherlight 52 grams (or 46 without the straps), boasts a 90-hour power reserve, and is ready to take on the deep sea (or at least your local swimming pool).
(Niche or Not Niche?)
Now, here's where it gets interesting. Matthieu describes the Diver Air as potentially a "niche" watch. Not because it's lacking in appeal, but because Ulysse Nardin isn't driven by chasing sales figures. They're driven by creating pieces with purpose, pieces that resonate with their brand's DNA.
As Matthieu, a watch collector himself, points out, he wanted a high-tech, sporty watch that he could actually wear while being active. And if he wanted it, surely others did too. Turns out, he was right. The response has been, shall we say, enthusiastic.
(Standing Out in the Crowd)
In a stroke of (slightly mad, but ultimately brilliant) genius, Matthieu and his team decided to go all-in on the Diver Air at Watches & Wonders. One watch. One superhero watch. In a sea of brands clamouring for attention, Ulysse Nardin chose focus over frenzy. And it worked.
As Matthieu astutely observed, in a world saturated with social media noise, you have to give people something to remember. Hence, the booth – a transparent, engaging space designed to tell the story of the Diver Air, complete with Italian baristas serving amazing coffee and a DJ spinning tunes. Because why not?
(Punching Above Its Weight)
And speaking of engaging, we couldn't resist a little booth-based fun. To demonstrate the Diver Air's robustness, Matthieu even had a go on a punching bag. Over 80 swings, he wasn’t quite top 10 but landed at an impressive 120 G’s
Oh, and for those of us who struggle to grasp the concept of 52 grams, Matthieu helpfully offered a very relatable comparison: a clementine. (Just don't try taking your clementine to 200 meters below sea level unless you want clementine juice).
(Innovation vs. Tradition: The Ulysse Nardin Balancing Act)
Ulysse Nardin has always been a master of the innovation-tradition tightrope walk. They're disruptors, yes, but they're also deeply rooted in heritage. And the Diver Air is a perfect example. It's packed with their own cutting-edge tech, but it also pays homage to Ulysse Nardin's legacy of maritime precision.
As Matthieu eloquently put it, it's about storytelling. It's about connecting the dots between 1893 marine chronometers and 2025 ultra-light dive watches. It's about remembering that even the most revolutionary timepiece has a history. Which is largely why I am here!
(Looking Ahead (and Downsizing))
So, what's next for Ulysse Nardin? Well, the Diver Air is here to stay. And the brand is even exploring ways to make their iconic Freak collection more accessible to a wider audience, including women and those with smaller wrists. No aim to “shrink it and pink it”, just clever engineering and ergonomic design.
(The State of the Market)
Finally, we took a moment to discuss the current state of the luxury watch market. It's a tough landscape out there, with challenges in key markets like China and the lingering effects of the post-COVID boom. But Ulysse Nardin, with its focus on genuine collector-driven demand, seems to be weathering the storm.
(A Fond Farewell (and More Puns))
As our time drew to a close, I couldn't help but shower Matthieu and Ulysse Nardin with praise. The Diver Air isn't just a great watch; it's a statement. And as the "On Air" sign illuminated in their booth, I couldn't resist wishing Matthieu a year of "walking on air."
So, there you have it. Another incredible conversation on Watch World, and one I’m truly grateful for. Thank you for tuning in.
Faye Soteri, Watch World with Faye, April 24, 2025
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