Hublot Celebrates with a (big) Bang.

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Big Bang Theory: How Hublot's Maverick Watch Changed the Game (and Still Is)

The glitzy chaos of Watches and Wonders 2025, where the air is thick with ticking masterpieces, some of the old revived, some new that push boundaries, and there is always an anniversary to celebrate. This year, we celebrated Hublot, one of the more youthful brands of the luxury watch world, as it marks a milestone that’s equal parts audacious and impressive: the 20th anniversary of its iconic Big Bang. Where has the time gone? It has been 20 years of pushing boundaries, breaking moulds, and making gold that is impossible to scratch.  I had the pleasure of sitting down with Raphael Nussbaumer, Hublot’s Chief Product Developer, and Nick Callegari, General Manager for the UK and Ireland, to unpack this milestone. 

A Young Rebel Hits the Big Time

Let’s get the basics out of the way: Hublot isn’t your granddaddy’s watch brand. At a sprightly 45 years old, it’s a mere toddler compared to the centuries-old heavyweights Watches and Wonders. Yet, here it is, stealing the spotlight with the Big Bang, a timepiece born in 2005 that was, by Raphael’s own admission, “a crazy moment” to launch. The idea? Create watches that scream innovation and rebellion. Fast forward two decades, and Hublot is toasting this legacy with a bang—pun intended.

To celebrate, they have focused (and may I say how grateful I was) on the Big Bang only – the only fusions in sight were the materials. First, a set of five watches crafted entirely from sapphire—in audacious Hublot style flexing their prowess in this domain. Second, a nod to the past with five reimagined versions of the original 2005 Big Bang. It’s a clever mix of nostalgia and futurism, proving Hublot can both honour its roots but keep looking into the future.

Material Magic: Scratch-Proof Gold and Minty Fresh Ceramics

If you thought watchmaking couldn’t get any more innovative, think again. Raphael and his team have been busy alchemy-ing up some mind-bending materials. Take Magic Gold, for instance—a patented 18-carat gold alloy fused with ceramic to make it un-scratchable. The example given: a block of butter studded with nails, but fancier. Introduced in 2014, it’s a feat of engineering that’s as practical as it is eye-catching, with a hue that’s distinctly “not your grandma’s yellow gold.” Nick sported a Magic Gold Big Bang with a sleek 43mm case and a one-click system—proof that Hublot can refine its icons without losing that rebellious edge.

And then there’s Raphael’s personal favourite: a green mint ceramic watch. It’s a bold move that screams Hublot’s DNA: innovation with a side of “let’s see if they dare to copy this.” For those who love the patina of a scratched-up watch as a life story, Raphael cheekily notes there’s room for both—Magic Gold stays pristine, while leather straps age like fine wine (or your favourite pair of jeans).

A New Chapter with Julien Tornare at the Helm

No anniversary party is complete without a shake-up, and Hublot’s got one in the form of new CEO Julien Tornare. Known for refining collections at partner brands, Julien’s already leaving his mark. This year, the focus is squarely on Big Bang—no Classic Fusions in sight—signalling a potential streamlining of Hublot’s famously sprawling lineup. As a former watch buyer, I can attest: Hublot appointments were either a dream or a nightmare, given the avalanche of stunning (but impossible-to-buy-all) products. Nick sees this as the start of an exciting journey, with Big Bang’s 20th as the launchpad for a more focused future. Here’s hoping Julien’s magic touch keeps the creativity flowing without overwhelming retailers.

Collaborations: Authentic or Just Flashy?

Hublot’s reputation for collaborations is legendary—think Ferrari, Takashi Murakami, and Samuel Ross. But with so many limited editions flooding the market, the big question is: does it enhance the brand or just clutter it? Nick emphasizes authenticity, ensuring partnerships align with Hublot’s vibe and tell a story. Raphael echoes this, recounting the exhilaration of starting with a blank slate to co-create “crazy and interesting pieces of art” with collaborators. It’s a balancing act—keeping the brand relevant without turning into a collaboration factory. The Big Bang Room at Watches and Wonders, packed with these past triumphs, is a testament to their success so far.

The Future: Hublot Vibes and Big Ambitions

So, what’s next for Hublot? Nick is optimistic, painting a picture of a brand that’s “back with a bang” (he missed a trick here). With a stunning new booth, disruptive energy, and a focus on storytelling—especially around the Big Bang’s 20 years—Hublot is poised to captivate. Despite global uncertainties, the team is doubling down on what they can control: those Hublot vibes, delivered through retail partners and direct stores in the UK and beyond. As a young brand with big dreams, Hublot’s future looks as bright as its sapphire watches.

Final Thoughts

Kudos to Raphael and his team for the engineering marvels, and to Nick for bringing the retail vision to life. Hublot’s 20th anniversary isn’t just a pat on the back—it’s a bold statement that this rebel brand is here to stay. As I left the interview, I couldn’t help but wonder: should I intern with Rafael’s team to witness those wild design sessions? Maybe next year.

Faye Soteri, Watch World with Faye, May 8, 2025

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