Watch World Guest Laura Warrilow holds rare Rolex Comex Submariner — Watch World Guest Laura Warrilow holds the Rolex Comex Submariner

In the Presence of Greatness

There are moments in this journey through horology that humble you completely. Standing in a secure location in London, surrounded by some of the rarest and most historically significant watches in the world, I found myself searching for words that could do justice to what lay before me.

This wasn't about hype or headlines. These watches speak for themselves—each one a cultural touchstone, a piece of history, a collector's grail that rarely surfaces outside the most secure vaults, let alone gathered in one extraordinary collection.

I was joined by Laura Warrilow from Fellows Auctioneers, whose 25 years in the watch industry and deep expertise in vintage timepieces provided the perfect lens through which to explore these remarkable pieces. Together, we examined watches that define what "rare" and "vintage" truly mean.

Faye Soteri meets Nicholas Bowman-Scargill (managing director of Fears (managing director of Fears)—the great-great-great-grandson of founder Edwin Fear.

The World of Auction Houses

Before we could fully appreciate these watches, I needed to understand the world they inhabit. For those of us more familiar with authorised dealers and contemporary collections, auction houses can seem like a different universe entirely.

Laura explained that Fellows Auctioneers, celebrating 150 years in business next year, has evolved significantly. While they once held live auctions with paddles and gavels—the theatrical experience many of us imagine—they've now moved to timed online auctions. Yet this hasn't diminished the excitement; it's simply changed how collectors engage with these extraordinary pieces.

What struck me most was the level of disclosure and transparency. Every watch receives a comprehensive condition report, detailing everything from the tiniest scratch to major imperfections. There's no ambiguity, no surprises—just honest, detailed information that allows collectors to make informed decisions.

"We're lucky because we have over 80 years of watch experience in the watch department alone," Laura told me. That depth of knowledge is evident in every aspect of their work.

Defining Rare and Vintage

Before diving into the watches themselves, I asked Laura to define these terms that get used so frequently but understood so variably.

"Vintage watches start becoming vintage from 25 years plus," she explained, "when brands stop looking at them and repairing them. But real vintage, I would say, is about 40 plus years."

As for rare? "They're watches you just cannot readily pick up the phone and purchase. A broker would be hard pushed to find these watches for you. You would spend years trying to find some of these examples."

Years. Deep pockets. And even then, no guarantees.

The Rolex COMEX Submariner 5514: A Prototype That Never Was

We began with a watch I didn't even know existed—a Rolex Submariner reference 5514, made exclusively for COMEX as a prototype.

"What's rare about it is that it has a helium release valve on the side of the case," Laura explained, pointing to the distinctive feature. "You would only find a helium release valve on Rolex models on a Sea-Dweller or a Deepsea, not on the Submariner."

This watch was never made commercially available. It exists in a liminal space—a working prototype, built for saturation divers, that represents Rolex's technical innovation but was never offered to the public.

Even more remarkable: this particular example still bears the engraving of the COMEX captain it was issued to. While engraving typically diminishes value in the pre-owned market, here it adds immeasurably to the provenance.

"I've been in the watch industry for 25 years," Laura said quietly, "and I've never seen this particular model."

The significance of that statement hung in the air between us.

Hands holding a Rolex Comex Submariner 5514 on Watch World podcast — A Prototype Rolex COMEX Submariner 5514

The TAG Heuer Monaco 1133B: Cinema Meets Horology

From deep-sea diving to the silver screen, we moved to a watch that needs little introduction: the TAG Heuer Monaco.

"This particular model was launched in 1969," Laura noted, "and of course it was made famous by Steve McQueen wearing it in the film Le Mans."

The example before us was completely original, still on its factory bracelet—a rarity in itself. So many vintage watches have been through repairs, replacement parts, and well-intentioned but ultimately value-diminishing restorations.

"I prefer to see non-pristine but authentic," Laura said when I asked about condition versus originality. "You've kept the history of the watch that way intact and you're still able to tell the story of how that watch has been."

There's wisdom in that perspective. These watches are meant to bear the marks of their journey through time.

Hands hold up Tag Heur Monaco 1133B on Watch World with Faye — Holding the iconic 1969 TAG Heuer Monaco 1133B

The Omega Speedmaster 2915: Before the Moon

If the Monaco represents cinema history, the Omega Speedmaster embodies humanity's greatest adventure.

"This Speedmaster is one of the earliest serial numbers that have been found to date," Laura revealed. "It's from 1957."

Twelve years before Buzz Aldrin would wear a Speedmaster on the moon, this watch was already in existence. It represents the foundation upon which the Moonwatch legacy was built.

What made this example even more special was the documentation: an extract from the Omega archives, detailing the reference number, calibre, movement number, production date, and original destination—Canada, delivered on November 11, 1957.

Laura pointed out the broad arrow hands and straight tachymeter bezel. "The collector mentioned that to get a new bezel can be up to £20,000," she said. "Just for the bezel alone."

I was astounded. For a stainless steel watch from 1957, a single component could cost as much as many complete modern watches. But that's the reality of maintaining authenticity in pieces this rare. Omega no longer makes these parts. Finding original components becomes an exercise in patience, resources, and luck.

Legends Made: 1957 Omega Speedmaster 2915 on Watch World with Faye

The Rolex Submariner 1680: Royal Provenance

Not every watch we examined had been planned for discussion. Some pieces simply demanded attention.

The Rolex Submariner 1680 in 18-Carat gold was commissioned by the Sultan of Oman through Asprey in London. Instead of "Submariner" on the dial, it bears the Sultan's signature.

"Rolex don't do that," I noted. "That's super rare."

The story behind it was equally fascinating: the Sultan had only worn it two or three times before his wife-to-be commented on what she called his "Christmas cracker watch." He never wore it again.

The collector possesses a handwritten letter from the Sultan explaining why the watch eventually came up for sale. That level of provenance—the personal story, the royal connection, the documentation—transforms an already rare watch into something truly extraordinary.

The Rolex Submariner 1680 in 18-Carat gold

The Paul Newman Daytona: A Watch Without Precedent

I saved the most significant piece for last, though truthfully, I struggled to find words adequate to the moment.

Wearing it on my wrist felt simultaneously thrilling and terrifying. This was a Rolex Daytona reference 6239—the same reference worn by Paul Newman himself—but with a critical difference: no luminous plots, no lume on the hands or dial.

"I've never in my years of being in auctioneering and vintage watches seen this example of this watch without the luminescence," Laura said.

Neither had I. And I suspect very few people alive have.

The watch is from 1967, purchased second-hand from Watches of Switzerland in 1977 for £150. We have the receipt. It remains in completely original condition—unaltered, untouched, authentic.

When I asked Laura what such a watch might command at auction, she paused thoughtfully.

"I would expect the reserve to be at around £250,000. That is the starting point, and I'm sure it would surpass that very quickly."

Paul Newman's own Daytona sold for just under $18 million. His had the lume. This doesn't. But it possesses something equally valuable: absolute originality, impeccable provenance, and a uniqueness that makes it truly one-of-a-kind.

The Humility of Handling History

Throughout our conversation, I found myself returning to a single feeling: humility.

These watches exist in a realm beyond typical collecting. They're not pieces you wear to dinner parties or accumulate as investments. They're fragments of horological history, preserved for future generations.

"I think when you've got a collection such as this," Laura reflected, "it's more about preserving them for the next generation to appreciate."

There's something bittersweet about that reality. These extraordinary watches, built as tools to be used, now live in safety deposit boxes around London. They'll never again dive to the depths they were designed for, never again time a race, never again accompany their wearers on grand adventures.

But perhaps that's the point. They've earned their retirement. They've done their duty. Now they serve a different purpose: as touchstones to a different era of watchmaking, when innovation happened in small workshops, when every prototype mattered, when getting things right meant everything.

What This Means for Collectors

"When we have people come in to visit Fellows Auctioneers," Laura explained, "I think they have an expectation it's going to be like watching the Antiques Roadshow where you're able to give a price immediately. But when you've got really special pieces in front of you, it's always good to go and discuss them with a colleague, other experts, and do your homework."

That honesty is refreshing. In a world that often demands instant answers, sometimes the right response is: "Let me research this properly."

For collectors, auction houses offer access to watches that simply don't exist elsewhere. These aren't pieces brokers can source or dealers can order. They surface unpredictably, often from estates or long-held private collections.

"You're either looking for a watch at a keen price," Laura said, "or that one-off piece you just cannot buy."

Final Thoughts On this Collection of Luxury Watches

This episode was unlike any I've recorded for Watch World. It wasn't about the latest releases or industry trends. It was about bearing witness to history, to craftsmanship that exists beyond commercial considerations, to watches that define entire categories of collecting.

I'm grateful to Laura Warrilow for sharing her expertise and to the collector who opened their vault to make this possible. These pieces won't be seen together again. Many of them may never be seen publicly at all.

That's what makes this moment special. Not the watches themselves—though they're extraordinary—but the opportunity to pause and appreciate what they represent: human ingenuity, historical significance, and the enduring appeal of mechanical excellence.

In a world of constant novelty and rapid obsolescence, these watches remind us that some things are truly timeless. Not because marketing tells us they are, but because they've proven it through decades of existence, surviving when lesser pieces have disappeared into history.

They don't need hype. They don't need explanation.

They simply are.

And that's enough.

To hear the full conversation and experience these remarkable watches, listen to the complete episode of Watch World with Faye. For those interested in learning more about Fellows Auctioneers and their upcoming sales, visit their website or contact their London and Birmingham showrooms.

Faye Soteri, Watch World with Faye, October 27, 2025

Holy Grails & Legends: Exploring Rare and Vintage Watches with Fellows Auctioneers