The Romance of Resurrection: Watch Brands That Refuse to Die
Women, wine, & watches
Every so often, an idea comes along that feels both natural and exciting — the kind of collaboration that sparks curiosity and leaves you wondering why it hasn’t happened before. My latest episode, Time on Our Hands, was exactly that. It brought together two passions that, at first glance, might seem worlds apart: fine wine and luxury watches. But as I discovered alongside my incredible guest, Libby Broodie, the connections run deeper than you might expect.
Watch World with Faye episode with guest Libby Brodie talking Wines & Watches.
In the latest episode of Watch World, I sat down with my good friend and returning guest, Mark Toulson, to explore one of the most fascinating aspects of the watch industry: the resurrection of brands. Some names seem destined never to fade completely. They may fall silent for decades, even centuries, only to rise again — phoenix-like — with renewed relevance, collectors’ passion, and fresh vision.
From Universal Genève’s much-anticipated comeback under Breitling’s stewardship to smaller independent revivals like Czapek, Favre-Leuba, and Fears, we asked: what drives these rebirths? Is it romance, business opportunity, or simply audacity?
A Wrist Review to Begin
As always, our conversation started with a wrist check. Mark wore the Favre-Leuba Deep Raider, a modern re-edition of a 1964 classic — a fitting nod to our theme. On my wrists (yes, two this time!), I had a vintage Universal Genève in elegant 14-carat yellow gold (courtesy of Tourtoise Watches and the Czapek Quai des Bergues, a revival piece linking directly back to the brand’s 19th-century origins.
Both served as perfect symbols for our discussion: watches rooted in heritage yet given a second life in today’s market.
Why Do Some Brands Disappear?
Mark and I dug into the reasons brands vanish in the first place. Sometimes it’s external forces — wars, political upheavals, or the infamous Quartz Crisis of the 1970s. Other times it’s more personal: heirs uninterested in carrying the torch, poor management, or shifting tastes.
As Mark put it, “We know the brands that came back because that’s their story — but countless others have vanished into history, never to return.”
DNA, Legacy, and Reinvention
A key question we tackled: does a revived brand need to remain faithful to its founder’s DNA? Some, like Czapek, closely honour their archives, while others, like H. Moser & Cie., reimagine freely with bold and often provocative creations.
For collectors, this tension is part of the fascination. Are we buying the watches themselves, or the poetry of rebirth? Perhaps both.
Passion vs. Powerhouse
We contrasted brands resurrected by passionate individuals (Pascal Raffy at Bovet, the trio behind Czapek) with those relaunched by corporate heavyweights (Universal Genève under Breitling). Each path carries different strengths: the intimacy of romance versus the scale of marketing and resources.
As Mark reminded us, “None of these are done just for fun — balance sheets matter. But the stories, when they’re authentic, make us believe.”
Lessons From the Past and Hopes for the Future
We also touched on Breguet’s uninterrupted 250-year history, where foresight and innovation (like the early souscription watch model) ensured survival rather than dormancy. It’s a reminder that reinvention can happen within continuity, too.
Looking ahead, all eyes are on Universal Genève’s official relaunch. With such rich heritage — from the Polerouter to the Tri-Compax chronographs — expectations are high. Will they honour the past, or reshape it for the 21st century? Time will tell.
Closing Thoughts
For both Mark and me, the romance of resurrection lies in the storytelling as much as in the watchmaking. These comebacks remind us that horology is more than mechanics and design; it’s heritage, identity, and sometimes sheer audacity.
As the industry faces today’s challenges — shifting economies, strong currencies, and evolving consumer tastes — perhaps these phoenix brands will be the sparks that keep the fire of watchmaking burning brightly.
What do you think? Do you prefer brands with unbroken legacies, or do you find the resurrection stories more compelling? Join the conversation and let us know.
Faye Soteri, Watch World with Faye, Septemberr 30, 2025
Sign up for news on early episodes, what’s to come and more
Follow Watchworld With Faye on Instagram, TikTok, YouTube and LinkedIn.
Suggestions? What are your thoughts on the podcast? Get in touch
Have an event to plan? Not sure where to start? Faye Soteri Consultancy
Want to be on the podcast? We’d love to hear from you here