London Watch Week: Tourbillons, Touchlines & Timepieces
Faye Soteri & Mark Toulson chat on Watch World about London Watch Week
Inside London Watch Week: Highlights from a Week of Horological Discovery
Last week was absolutely mental in the best possible way. I found myself sprinting between watch events across London, and honestly, I loved every minute of it. From the inaugural Hands-on Horology in Shoreditch to the sophisticated halls of Bonhams, this was London Watch Week at its finest – and it got me thinking about how much our industry has changed.
From £2K tourbillons to six-figure icons, Faye Soteri and Mark Toulson reflect on a packed London Watch Week—from community conversations and collectors to espresso-timing chronographs and auction surprises. Watch culture is shifting—and they’re here for it.
The Birth of Something Special at Hands-on Horology
Saturday morning found Mark Toulson and me in Shoreditch at Protein Studios for the very first Hands-on Horology event. What struck me immediately was the natural daylight flooding the space. You might think that's a small detail, but when you're trying to appreciate the subtle details of a watch dial, proper lighting makes all the difference. Too many watch shows suffer from dreadful artificial lighting that does the timepieces no favours whatsoever.
The event showcased over 40 brands, ranging from several hundred pounds to frankly eye-watering sums. I was particularly taken with Brew & Co – a husband and wife team from the States creating beautifully designed watches under £500. Their case shape reminded me of an Apple Watch, but in the most flattering way possible. The simplicity of their pricing structure appealed to me too; minimal variation between models meant choosing became purely about which watch spoke to you personally.
But then there was the £2,000 tourbillon from Blackout Watches that had me rather conflicted. On one hand, I appreciate making complications accessible to more people. On the other hand, something about a mass-produced tourbillon felt wrong to me – like it stripped away the craftsmanship that makes these complications special. Mark made a fair point comparing it to the quartz crisis of the 1970s, suggesting perhaps my reaction was similar to what traditionalists felt then. Still, I can't shake the feeling that some things shouldn't be democratised quite so readily.
Finding My Place in the Community
The real revelation came the following day at Old Trafford. Norquain had kindly invited me to their UNICEF Soccer Aid event, and I found myself seated with journalists, influencers, and genuine collectors rather than the usual retail crowd I'd grown accustomed to over my career.
Initially, I felt a bit relegated – no pun intended given the football setting. For fifteen years, I'd been used to sitting at the top table because of my buying power and retail connections. But within minutes, I realised this was actually my preferred spot. The collector next to me wasn't there out of obligation; he was there because he genuinely loved watches. His enthusiasm was infectious as he talked me through his collection and shared his thoughts on various movements and complications.
This shift in perspective was the highlight of my entire week. I'd attended countless brand events over the years because I had to – it was part of the job, however enjoyable. But this time, I was there because I chose to be, surrounded by people who shared that same genuine passion for horology.
London Watch Week Brings the Industry Together
The official London Watch Week events were equally impressive. Lucy, Justin and the team behind it deserve enormous credit for pulling together such a varied programme. Thursday's independent watchmaker showcase introduced me to brands like Czapek and Ressence, whilst the Bonhams preview offered a completely different perspective on collecting.
I'd never seriously considered purchasing through auction before, but my visit to Fellows Auctions opened my eyes to another facet of our industry. Laura Warlow, their head of watches, gave me brilliant advice: set your budget and have fun. Watching online bidding unfold was fascinating – seeing a bag of broken watch parts go from a £40 reserve to £2,000 because someone knew exactly what those components could become.
The combination of watches and handbags at Fellows was particularly clever. I found myself pairing a platinum Daytona with an ice blue Chanel bag, then matching a Cartier with quilted Chanel in almost identical colours. Why don't more retailers think about accessories this way?
What This All Means for the Luxury Watch Industry
Standing in that lift during London Watch Week, I overheard one gentleman tell another about getting his first watch at thirty – then revealing it was a Lange & Sohne. That conversation perfectly captured what's happening in our industry right now. The barrier to entry has dropped significantly, specifically access to brands, knowledge and community.
Twenty years ago, watch events were exclusive affairs for retailers and brands and High networth clients. Now, thanks to social media and events like these, passionate collectors can engage directly with the people behind the brands. A startup watchmaker can reach thousands of followers without needing to convince a major retailer to stock their pieces first.
This democratisation doesn't diminish the craftsmanship at the top end – people still understand the difference between a £2,000 tourbillon and a Patek Philippe. But it does mean more people can participate in and appreciate what we do, and that can only be positive for everyone involved.
The week reminded me why I fell in love with this industry in the first place. Yes, none of us actually needs a watch in 2025, but that's rather the point. We choose to wear them because they tell our stories, connect us to craftsmanship traditions, and link us to a community of people who appreciate the same attention to detail and mechanical beauty that we do.
If London Watch Week becomes an annual fixture – and I sincerely hope it does – it will represent something important: proof that our industry has room for everyone, from the collector saving for their first proper timepiece to the connoisseur hunting for that perfect vintage model. That's a community worth celebrating.
Faye Soteri, Watch World with Faye, July 1, 2025
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